Sunday 27 February 2011

Port of Chickens

Porto de Gallinas (Port of Chickens) is a popular holiday spot for Brazilian families and it isn’t hard to see why - it has a beautiful and lively main beach with natural rock pools, a lagoon area with crabs and seahorses and a cute town area with an array of restaurants and shops. There are little chicken statues all around the town and chicken footprints painted on the pavement. 


We stayed at a little posada near the beach which claimed to have a pet monkey. We didn't see any evidence of a monkey (liars), but they did have a cute kitten.

Kitten eating breakfast
We spent a beautiful day exploring the lagoon area. It was supposed to contain seahorses, but we just saw thousands of crabs, big and small. So pretty. 

Grey at the lagoon

Crab at the lagoon

Small crabs at the lagoon - hard not to step on

Main swimming beach with natural pools

Friday 25 February 2011

Morro De Sao Paulo

Morro is a small beach town on a large island, only accessible by boat. It has a one road town which connects the port with the beach, and 4 beaches in a row, creatively named first, second, third and forth beach. The town is filled with restaurants, bars and souvenir shops. The first beach is quite small, the second (where we stayed) is the main hang-out beach with fruit and snack stalls, many restaurants and bars, and more Israelis’ per square metre than Tel-Aviv. The third beach was rarely sittable, as the tide swallowed it up most of the day, and the forth beach stretched the longest and was the most unspoilt, but the water was about 35 degrees and hardly a respite from the heat.

Everyone on Morro has a Brazilian flag sarong. We bought one to be like them

2nd beach shenanigans

More shenanigans ...

Moon rise over first beach



And so, this was our greatest problem each day, which beach to sit at? (tough life)

So much choices!!
Our posada was cute and served a nice breakfast each day. At night, we ate in restaurants, had balcony drinks and bar drinks, tried the local speciality called “Moqueca”, hung out with people who crossed our path, and walked around the town and beaches. It was relaxing to say the least. 

Chileans on the self timer!


Moqueca with camarones - served with rice, beans and something else that we are not sure about yet

Thursday 24 February 2011

Salvador (1)

We flew into Salvador with relatively few hitches (by our standards). The only bad thing that happened was the bus to Rio airport drove straight past us on Ipanema beach after we had waited for 45 minutes, resulting in an expensive taxi ride to make our flight.

Salvador was an amazing town; it was like landing in Africa. It just so happened that we arrived on the biggest night of the week – TUESDAY (of course) and the whole town comes alive. We had been walking around for 5 minutes when we heard pounding African drums coming from around the corner. We followed the sound and came across an African drum troupe banging out some crazy rhythms in the middle of a street.

The Pelourinho

Getting acaraje (African snack of coscos, cheesy stuff, prawns, veges) and getting fat




Cool cat

Streets are filled with art





Our hostel also happened to back on to a free open air concert which played reggae, Brazilian and African fusion music. The streets were packed with people, food stalls, caipirinha stands (5R) and roaming drum and dance bands, in scenes which I imagine were in anticipation of Carnaval. We met a couple of Aussie girls and an American dude who we hung out with and wandered the streets. Awesome night.
Setting up for the concert, good view


At one stage during the night, an old drunk man approached us and started dribbling an imaginary soccer ball as one of the drum groups left the street. It was hilarious to see this smashed old man with no teeth and no T-shirt dancing around with no care in the world. Magic.

Watching Milan v Spurs in the Champions League. Amazing
View from the bar

Tense



Monday 21 February 2011

Rio de Janeiro

We arrived in Rio after our first class ordeal excited to be in such an iconic city. The bus ride into the city was really interesting as we passed through the centre and Copacabana on our way to Ipanema Bonita Hostel.

Rio was damn hot! When we arrived in Ipanema we had to haul our bags three or four blocks up to the hostel in 35 degree heat from the beachfront– it was a schvitz-a-thon.

Ipanema has a cute, village-like feel, which reminded me a lot of Bondi. There are boutique shops, restaurants and juice stalls everywhere. We had our first meal at Koni Sushi on Russ’ recom. Not bad as we had been craving sushi for a few days.

That afternoon we plonkled our arses on some chairs at Posto 9 – the coolest part of Ipanema beach - and watched the amazing bodies and even more amazing bikinis and short shorts parade around us. We ordered some Caipirinhas which were phenomenal (and strong) and were buzzing after 30 minutes of being there.

Ipanema con caprianhas

Sunset, almost

Panda
The only sour note on an otherwise amazing afternoon was when we thought we were being thrifty by going to a restaurant in Ipanema and ordering a wrap to share. Halfway through we called for some French fries (as you do). When the bill came the frenchies were more than the wrap and possibly the most expensive chips I have ever eaten at R22 (about 14 AUD). Lesson learnt - never order without looking at the menu in Brazil!!

We went to see a Samba Class in the Rocinha favela on our first night with a bunch of people. The favela is meant to be the biggest in South America. The driver told us that the police are waiting to crackdown on the druglords in Rocinha last as they continue sweeping through the other favelas in Rio.

The samba school was amazing with a huge drum section banging out the beats, a few singers yelling out the melodies (which basically went “ROCINHAAAAAAAAAA” over and over again) and the amazing locals dancing their butts off and shaking them faster than I ever seen an arse move before. The energy was amazing and the dancing went from about 11pm and was still going strong when we left at 3am.

On our second day we changed hostels and moved into our first dorm of the trip at The Lighthouse Hostel. The room was OK, with nice people, but on the first night no-one figured to turn the aircon on, so we swelted away all night. Me and mish slept across the room from each other which was not ideal. We didn’t really like not having our own private space and looked forward to our private time a lot more.

We checked out Cristo Redentor on a Sunday which turned out to be a total debacle!!  We caught a bus at around 2.15pm after grabbing an Acai smoothie and hitting up the Ipanema Hippie Markets. We arrived at Cristo at around 3pm and were told the next train up was at 4.40pm. We decided to wait for the train and not go up in a van which was slightly more expensive (bad decision).


We went to line up at 4.20pm, only to find out that one of the carriages was not working so the 4.40 only ended up leaving at 5.45pm. We checked out Cristo (pretty cool) then had to wait in line for another 40 minutes to get down the hill because we weren’t “allowed” to negotiate a ride down in a van. By the time we got back to the hostel it was around 9pm.

The actual monument was pretty spectacular as I’m sure most people would attest. The panoramic view over Rio is sensational, and the iconic Cristo standing over was nothing short of ….. iconic. Rio truly is a spectacular city.




Copacabana left, Ipanema Right
We had dinner at Caratao (an all you can eat Charrasceria) thanks to the recommendation of Johnny and our hostel coordinator guy (Enrique). The meat was amazing and another awesome experience. Like everything in Rio though, it was damn expensive with the bill coming in at 150 Reais (90 AUD). But well worth it.

Salad bar, salad ++

Salad, the enemy of meat

Sneaky distractions

Yesss
As we left the restaurant I noticed Mish was moving extremely slowly, and groaning for some reason. It soon became evident we had an emergency on our hands. Mish was in a Meat Coma. A Meat Coma is a medical condition, occurring after a mass consumption of meat. All vital organs appear to shutdown and the sufferer is unable to even communicate the simplest of words. Common treatment is immediate sleep and gallons of water. Mish will be spending more time at the salad bar at the next all you can eat.

Meat Coma
We spent a day checking out the central area of Rio. We caught the metro to Uruguiana and looked around the flea market. It was a massive area of markets reaching for miles and backing onto the CBD. It would have been around 40 degrees and the heat was stifling. The alley ways, central roads and cool architecture was reminiscent of Melbourne.


Cute bakeries

Jo, Mum - how much does he look like Grandad!?


Cathedral in the foreground
Instead of walking down to Lapa we caught the metro to avoid the heat. Lapa has been referred to as “the Montmarte of the tropics” and some of the buildings looked very Parisian. However, if you walk a little bit around the edges there is a grittiness to it with the very poor intermingling with the very wealthy. It is an interesting area and if we had more time I would have liked to come to some of the coolo bars or Samba clubs that litter the suburb.

The most famous attraction in Lapa is the Lapa steps, created by some Brazilian guy. I knew about these from Snoop Dogg’s video clip “Beautiful” but seeing them for real was really cool and interesting. The tiles on the steps are all colours of the Brazilian flag, while around the sides is tiles from all over the world. Really cool (despite the heat).

Straya tile




We sat down for a beer near the steps and Ronaldo was on TV announcing his retirement from football. Cool moment in time he was playing for Corinthians.

Ronaldo retiro

Rio final thoughts:
  • Energy;
  • Natural Beauty (surrounds and people);
  • Fitness;
  • General VIBE.
Acai!!!

First Class

This is how we got there:
  • 10:25am - Arrive at Guatemala City airport for our 11:55am flight to Rio. We had booked with TACA (a budget airline) and were to fly 3 legs – 1 hour to El Salvador, 3 hours to Lima and 6 hours onto Rio, arriving at 5am local time.
  • 10:30am – Line up to check in at TACA.
  • 10:40am – Get to the front of the check in queue - TACA advises that the El Salvador flight had been overbooked.
  • 10:40 to 11.30am – TACA spend this time booking us onto a 12:55pm flight to Lima via Costa Rica on COPA (another budget airline) while we stand at the check in counter.
  • 11:30am – We go to check onto our COPA flight. There is a long queue at check in queue. We ask TACA to take us to the front of the queue so we have time to make the flight. TACA say not to worry about it, just stand in line – we ask COPA if we can skip the queue – not necessary, they say - there is plenty of time.
  • 12:00pm - We get to the front of the COPA check-in queue.
  • 12:00 to 12:15pm – COPA guy is typing away doing something we don’t understand.
  • 12:15pm - COPA guy asks Grey to show proof of onward travel out of Brazil.
  • 12:15 to 12:30pm – We discuss why it is unnecessary for Grey to have proof of onward travel (COPA are not flying us into Brazil, TACA do not have an issue with it, a declaration should be sufficient etc) and then tell them that we will go book a bus ticket out of Brazil immediately.
  • 12:30pm - I run to book a bus ticket out of Brazil for Grey with the COPA guys. Once away from the desk the COPA guys direct me back to TACA. Although I didn’t really understand what was going on at the time, the COPA guys ask the TACA guys to type up a fake ticket out of Brazil. They take their time doing this.
  • 12.40pm - I run back to the COPA queue with random fake ticket in hand. COPA advises that the flight has now closed, we’ve missed the plane and it is not their problem.
  • 12.45pm - We return to TACA. TACA advise that the situation is COPA’s problem. Obviously not. We argue with TACA for a while. TACA starts typing away trying to find us an alternative route to Brazil. “We have found you an alternative flight”, says TACA, “The only problem is that it gets to Brazil 4 hours later (not much of a problem considering), it goes via Miami (okay) and it is in first class on American Airlines”. “Well if that is all that is available, we will have to take it”, we say.

YESSSSSS!!!!


Coffee for Ryan, Grey's Guatamalan name
Guatemala City – Miami

The plane was pretty ordinary and the seats did not fully recline. We drank some nice drinks and had an awesome meal for a flight – Grey had a Churrasco mixed plate which was very tasty and I had a chicken rice soup.




Miami

We had a couple of hours to kill in Miami before boarding the connecting flight. Grey thought it would be a good idea to try our luck getting into the first class lounge. We asked an airport attendant about the Admirals Club and she advised us that it was $50 per person. Then:

Grey: What about if we are travelling first class?
Airport chick: You’re travelling first class??
Grey: Yes here are our tickets …
Airport chick: Oh, it’s free for first class travelers…
(Told you Mish)

So we arrive at the Admirals Club. Grey asks about using the showers. The concierge says there is a queue for the shower but she will call for someone to pick us up and take us to the larger lounge at the other end of the terminal. She gives us 5 free cocktail passes.

We get driven across the airport to the second lounge (by-passing a disabled person in need of assistance (Grey is writing this part)) and get to the first class lounge where we shower, eat lots of carrots, and drink beer, wine and martinis.

Martini in the lounge

A quick shower ...

Miami - Rio

The funnest flight ever! We had fully reclining beds and an awesome night’s sleep – but not before consuming copious amounts of champagne, food and wine. We took lots of photos to remember the occasion.

Cheers - welcome drinks

More cheers (and nuts and feta and olives)

Smoked salmon blinis - appetizer

Dinner


Dessert

Goodnights